How to Hem Jeans - Two Easy Methods for a Professional Finish

Hemming jeans is one of the most common garment alterations you'll make, whether you're tailoring your favorite designer denim or shortening hand-me-downs for the kids. While a sewing machine makes the process easier, denim can present unique challenges, so we’re sharing two hemming techniques plus helpful tips for success.

There are two main ways to hem jeans:

Method 1: Remove the original hem and sew a brand-new one

—Creates a clean, modern hem
—Original distressed hem is removed

Method 2: Keep the original distressed hem

—Shortens the jeans
—Preserves the manufacturer’s original look

Below, you’ll learn step-by-step how to do both.

Hemming Jeans by Removing the Original Hem

What You Need

• Scissors
• Pins
• Removable fabric marker
• Denim needle (size 16 or 18)
• Topstitching thread (for needles)
• All-purpose thread (for bobbin)

1. Determine the New Hem Length

Fold the jeans up to the desired finished length—don’t cut yet.
Pin in place, try them on with the shoes you plan to wear, and adjust as needed.

2. Mark and Trim

Mark the final hem placement using pins or a fabric marker.
Open the hem flat and trim off the original hem, leaving a 1" (25 mm) hem allowance.

3. Prepare the Hem

You have two options:

Option A: Standard Double Fold

• Fold up ½" (13 mm)

• Fold up another ½" (13 mm)

• Press and pin

Option B: Overedge Finish for Thick Denim

• Trim the hem allowance down to ½" (13 mm)

• Finish the raw edge with an overedge stitch or an overlock machine

4. Topstitch the Hem

• Thread the needle with jeans topstitching thread

• Bobbin stays with all-purpose thread

• Convert the machine to free arm mode

• Set a straight stitch with a medium-long stitch length

• Sew around the hem at your desired distance from the fold

Your new hem is done!

Hemming Jeans While Keeping the Original Hem

This method shortens the jeans while keeping the factory-distressed hem intact for an authentic look.

What You Need

• Scissors
• Pins
• Removable fabric marker
• Denim needle (size 16 or 18)
• All-purpose thread (needle + bobbin)

1. Mark the Finished Length

Determine how long you want the jeans and mark that length with pins.

2. Measure the Hem Placement

Measure the distance from your marked hemline down to the bottom edge of the jeans.
Example: 3" (7.6 cm).

3. Mark the Fold Line

Measure the depth of the original hem—from the bottom edge to the topstitching—usually ½" (13 mm).

Double that measurement:
½" × 2 = 1" (25 mm)

Draw another line 1" (25 mm) above your first line.

4. Align the Original Hem

Fold the jeans so the bottom edge of the original hem aligns with the top line you marked.
Pin in place.

5. Stitch the Hem

• Thread needle & bobbin with all-purpose thread
• Convert the machine to free arm mode
• Use a straight stitch
• Sew just above the original hemline, securing the fold

6. Finish the Inside

Sew an overedge stitch along the raw edge, then trim away the excess fabric.

7. Press

Press the original hem down.

The fold will blend in beautifully—almost invisible!